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While whale-watching remains the big tourist draw in Húsavík, the wider community has renewed its interest in the great space race of the 60s. “There are quite a number of residents who are into it,” says Ormerod. “I was very grateful to Örly for introducing me to some of them – including a couple of local aurora hunters.” After a week in Iceland in terrible weather, Ormerod had almost given up on seeing the northern lights, but the brothers picked him up in their huge 4x4, with tyres the size of a person, and drove to a beach just out of town. “I was still fiddling with my head torch when they headed off down this rocky cliff – and then all of a sudden, there were the lights. It was insane. Like an alien invasion. I’m not sure you can ever capture it in a picture.”

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